The Hair In Black Women

Dr. Neil Persadsingh

104 pages

Reviewed by Barbara Blake Hannah

Dr. Neil Persadsingh, M.B.,B.S. (UWI), holds a Diploma in Dermatology from the University of London, St. John’s Hospital for Diseases of the Skin. He is a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology, and a foundation member of the Dermatological Association of Jamaica and the Caribbean Dermatological Association. He has been practicing in Jamaica for more than two decades.

According to Persadsingh, no text has been published to advise black women how to deal with specific and particular conditions and diseases of the hair and scalp. This book hopes to fill that void, and will undoubtedly be of interest to the Black female population, which is obsessed as no other race with the grooming and look of their hair. The book is not just for Black women, either, as Dr. Persadsingh points out that some diseases of the hair and scalp are common equally to men and women.

The Doctor asks and answers the questions : why does the hair on our eyebrows never grow as long as the hair on our head? Why doesn't pubic hair begin to grow until adolescence? Why is there no race on the planet in which women have more hair than men? He explains that the primary purpose of scalp hair is to protect us from the sun's harmful radiation, thus the thick hair of African people from the hottest part of the world is nature's protective measure.

"The ancient African believed that the hair, as the highest part of the body, was in touch with the Gods, hence its importance," writes Dr. Persadsingh. "With hair, people can show their place in society, their philosophical principles or their cultural legacy." Sharing some proud history, Dr. Persadsingh reveals that " ...the ancient African woman wore her hair with pride in a grand manner. African women would decorate their hair with bits of gaily coloured cloth, put in wild glowers and sometimes trim the sides and back of their hair, leaving tufts on top of the head very much like a bouquet."

"One of the first things done to captured slaves," continues Persadsingh, "was to cut off their hair. The slaves were allowed no possessions, including their afro-combs, and so an important symbol of their culture and their heritage of beautification was lost. Amongst the array of physical and psychological deprivation people were subjected to, we need to remember the social-psychological importance of the comb. Freedom, dignity and a sense of self-worth were lost with the comb."

Deprived of their afro-combs, slave women used their imaginations to create hot combs and tongs to straighten the hair and make it more manageable. They used thread from feed bags to wrap the hair in little tufts, or braided it in corn-rows, to keep it from tangling in the fields. Dr. Persadsingh discusses the development of chemical straighteners which evolved in the early 1900's, replacing the hot comb with lye-based 'conk'  familiarized by Nat King Cole. Today a wide variety of straighteners, weave-ins, sisterlocks, braids, extensions, as well as a variety of hair colours and ornaments are within easy access of Black women's styling choices.

Unfortunately, the desire for Black women to transform their naturally curly, water resistant, heat-protective hair into a straightened approximation of Caucasian women's hair, leads to a vast number of hair and skin diseases. Dr. Persadsingh's main concern is to show Black women how they can have healthy, beautiful hair, regardless of the style they may choose to wear it.

The book is firstly devoted to describing the many ways Black women have found to fashion their hair by straightening and colouring it. The book describes in detail what hair is, the unique characteristics of Black hair and how it is affected by straightening, colouring or bleaching. Dr. Persadsingh then discusses various diseases of the hair and scalp, and remedies that can be taken to alleviate them. His medical knowledge is so extensive and detailed even to the extent of naming medications, that it would seem that many potential patients will simply buy his book instead of seeing him in person - so helpful are his comments.

Some of the diseases that send Black women to the dermatologist are dandruff, acne keloidallis or 'barber bumps', traction alopecia (usually seen at the hairline and caused by the hair being excessively pulled, stretched or straightened), baldness in women, head lice and ringworm. Bumps along the hairline can be caused by an overuse of pomade, or from dirt and grease collected by braided false hair.

Described as "the ultimate guide to Black hair and how to solve all your hair problems" the book provides information on various methods of hair removal, ingrown hair and razor bumps (yes, women do suffer from razor bumps!), with many illustrations and photographs.

Two useful appendixes list hair grooming products for the Black consumer and medical treatments such as topical steroids, medicated shampoos and depilatories. Dr. Persadsingh's informs that many hair products are formulated for Caucasian hair, which is different from Black hair, so Black women should seek out products created specifically for their hair type. Even the taboo topic of too much hair (hirsutism) in women, is discussed.

In the final analysis, Dr. Persadsingh's text supports the natural way of grooming Black women's hair. His comments in the postscript are revealing : "Recently, we have witnessed a return to the more natural way of styling; there have been locks and braids. We must remember that our African hair suits African features and we should be proud of these aspects of our character. Celebrate your hair and celebrate yourselves."